BLACK TIE GLOSSARY

If your invitation reads....

"Black Tie Invitation": Wear a Tuxedo (Dinner Jacket) for the event appropriate for the time of year. Fancy waistcoat and cummerbund are appropriate.

"White Tie Invitation": This is most formal and requires a black full dress tailcoat with white pique waistcoat and bow tie.

Dictionary of terms

Bowtie: A butterfly shaped neck piece usually associated with "James Bond" that comes as ready tied or self tie. The self tie takes practice so buy ahead for less stress.

Besom Pocket: On a jacket it is a narrow piping above the pocket slit.

Cufflinks: Decorative accessory used to fasten the cuffs of a formal shirt in place of the buttons. Cummerbund: A broad sash worn over the trouser waistband and fastened at back.

Cravat: An accessory it is a wide necktie knotted so that its broad ends are laid flat upon each other. Often pinned together with a pearl cravat pin and usually worn for occasions like weddings with tailcoats. Sometimes confused as a crumple tie.

Crumple Tie: An accessory it is a wide necktie knotted so that its broad ends are laid flat upon each other. Whereas a cravat lays on itself this tie looks like a large tie where the knot is crumpled up giving it its name. You do not need to wear a pin with this as the knot will keep it in place. Sometimes confused as a cravat.

Double Besom Pocket: On formal jackets it is the two narrow pipings in satin or self material above and below the slit of the pocket, without a flap.

Double Breasted: A jacket where the front instead of meeting at centre it overlaps.

Flap Pocket: This is found on most standard jackets and is the flap that covers the pocket. Floor Level Peak Lapel: On a coat, a type of peak lapel in which the peak, rather than pointing upward, runs parallel to the floor.

Formal Shoes: Patent leather or vinyl shoes with a glossy finish. Today's selection offers a variety of styles featuring insets and textured materials.

French Cuff: A wide cuff that is folded back on itself to line up the slits in the cuff. The cufflinks are then inserted in the slit with the decorative side facing up as your hands are placed on a table. This is found on most all dress shirts on size 14½ and above.

Full Dress Tails: A coat also known as the tailcoat, being short in the front and long in the back with a satin collar. Slightly different from a standard morning wear tailcoat it is very formal. Once available only in black, now available in all colors.

Lapel: On a coat it is the turned back material that falls from the collar to the front of the coat around the area of the top centre button. Can be of satin as in tuxedos or the same material as the coat.

Nehru Collar: An upright banded collar usually with decorative button and no wings. Has an oriental look and is not worn with a tie. 

Notch Label: Where there is a cutout between the collar and the lapel and the top of the lapel is usually horizontal.

Peak Lapel: Where the top of the lapel is pointed upwards sharply and outwards.

Pique Shirt: A white shirt with a waffle-like texture on the front panels and cuffs.

Pique Waistcoat: A white waistcoat with a`waffle-like texture. The most traditional waistcoat.

Shawl Lapel: No change in the lapel from the collar down to the base of the lapel where it forms a continious curved edge of the lapel.

Spats: Short formal fabric shoe coverings worn over the instep and reaching just above the ankle, usually fastened by a strap under the foot and buttons on one side. Once used to protect shoes from mud, now a high-fashion accessory.

Studs: Small ornamental buttons mounted on short posts for inserting in place of the shirt button.

Tuxedo: More commonly called a Dinner Jacket it is usually a black jacket with a satin lapel.

Vents: On a jacket it is where there is a slit from the bottom of the jacket in the centre or side, can be one or more vents.

Waistcoat: A colourful sleeveless garment worn between the shirt and jacket often seen worn by snooker players and waiters.

Wing Collar: This is a stand up collar on a formal shirt, instead of having a fold-down collar it stands up with little wings that stick out at the front next to the top button.